Kimball Benchmark

Kimball Benchmark is located on an impressive looking mesa in the GSENM.  It has cliff walls that look impenetrable to anyone who would try to ascend – probably why the benchmark was placed there by helicopter in 1954.  So, when Tom invited us to come along with him and “the crew” a couple of weeks ago, we decided to stay home and finish a garden project – we should have gone!

Tom made it to the top with his dogs and said he had found a route on the north side that wasn’t too bad.  The real “kicker” was the pictures he sent us of the unique capstone that held the benchmark and reference markers on the east end of the mesa.  After seeing these, we knew it wouldn’t be long until we did some route finding, for ourselves, and experience the solitude and beautiful views from atop this fun mesa.

Back in February when Allison took this picture of the moon she did not realize
 one thing would lead to another!
(Our route went up the left hand side of the mesa and then wrapped around the backside)

We worked our way up these colorful hills in order to gain the ridge line . . .
Then began our ascent on the north side of the mesa

Right away Allison spotted this rock . . .
What do you think?  Is this a dinosaur track? Or just a rock with a peculiar pattern?

Here we are approaching the third cliff band . . .
All had weaknesses that you could walk through . . . part of the hike's appeal is the route finding!

The cliff walls had some interesting geologic features
(Looks like the rocks have termite tubes/tunnels)

Kent is working his way up through another rock layer . . .
Never got much harder than this on the ascent

Not only did we have great views, but fun things to look at along the way

Kimball Benchmark is atop this formation at the east end of the mesa
Isn't that capstone unique?

Red on white . . . it's very unusual . . . where did this come from?

Kent is searching for a copper nail & washer . . . the benchmark is bottom center
(One of the reference markers is cemented into the flat slab behind Kent)

Tom could not find the benchmark when he first arrived . . .
Using the reference markers, he had to remove loose rock and brush away sand to find it . . 
When we arrived, it was nearly covered up, yet again, after only two weeks

Wire left by the surveyors

One of the two copper nail & washer reference markers

Evidence of wind
After 67 years, the wire has cut quite the gouge in the sandstone

Off to the north are No Mans Mesa, Deer Range Point & Mollies Nipple

It was quite windy up on Kimball Benchmark, which is also the Highpoint (6,537 ft)

More fun rocks on to see on the way down

Getting close to where we will descend off the mesa
What's with that strange white rock?

These Moenkopi hills weren't too bad to walk on (they'd be a mess if it were wet) . . . 
It was like walking on a popcorn . . . at times we would sink in & other times we'd slip
 

If you'd like a topo map and GPS tracks for this hike, you can click here for a link to Tom's post on Peakbagger.com.  The only difference between his route and ours was that we started one more wash over to the northwest, so we could avoid some of the loose scree under the first two cliff bands.

No Mans Mesa

There is only one way up No Mans Mesa - that being the Jepson Goat Trail. The trail was established by Lewis Jepson in 1927 so that he could graze approximately 800 Angora goats on top of this mesa.  The historic gate, as well as, fencing he used to keep the goats on the mesa, are still at the top of the trail.

Wanting to see the Jepson trail, all of us (Tom, Kent & Allison) were very interested in using it to climb this impressive mesa fortress.  Kent & Allison primarily wanted to see what was on top, but Tom wanted to use the trail to reach the highpoint located three and a half miles away on the southern tip of No Mans Mesa.  The views from the top were outstanding and Tom, albeit very tired, made his highpoint – what a great outing!

No Mans Mesa is huge!
It rises 800 vertical feet from the sandy floor . . . is 3.5 miles long . . . 1.5 miles wide . . .
And only has a single access point which is located on its northern end

This picture of our route is taken from Michael R. Kelsey's book
Hiking and Exploring the Paria River
(We highly recommend ordering this book from Kelsey Publishing!)

After a fun ride we arrived at our starting point . . .
By the way, it was 26 ° this morning at the campsite!

If goats could make it up, surely so can we!

This rock was chiseled away to form a step for the goats

Some of the cliff walls were covered with lichen

Near the top . . . an interesting view off to our east

We passed through the Jepson gate that was built in 1927 . . . 94 yrs ago! 

Gate hardware is still intact

Looking back through the gate opening at Park Wash in the valley floor below

 Jepson must have really wanted to keep those goats locked up!

Deer Range Point can be seen through this bent over fence post

The top of No Mans Mesa is landscaped with pines, manzanita, juniper, lots of sand & cacti!

After hiking with Tom for a mile across the top, it became pretty monotonous, and we decided to return to the trailhead and wait for him.  Tom continued on "Alone Again, Naturally" (a little musical humor) to slog another 2.5 miles to the southern highpoint.

In retrospect, if we were to do this hike again, we would walk a mile along the western rim, then cut across the mesa, and return to the trailhead by hiking a mile on the eastern side.  By doing this route you would get a good experience of the mesa top landscape and enjoy views of both the west and east sides.  This would make for a nice five-mile round-trip hike (includes the Jepson trail).

Off to our north is Deer Range Canyon . . .
 We might have to come back and explore this area . . . it looks very interesting

It's time to head back down
(Did you notice how the weather has changed?)

Barely visible behind those snow squalls is Bryce Canyon

We took our time with all the loose rock . . .
Can you picture 800 goats coming up this trail?

Tom and Kent help Ezy down a tricky spot
(By clicking on the picture, it will enlarge and you will more "easily" see him)

Lola waits her turn with Allison

It's late afternoon as we are just about back to the UTV

Do you see a trail through the rocks?
It's the only way up & down the mesa!

Another great day!  Time to head back and pack up camp!

Tom ended up hiking nine miles (r/t) and successfully reached the highpoint on the southern tip of the mesa.  If you would like a GPS track and topo map of his hike, please click here for his post from Peakbaggers.com.

If you're interested in doing this hike, but don't have an ATV, here are a couple of links to folks who have come in from the north using Lick Wash off the Skutumpah Road:

• No Man's Mesa in Grand Staircase - Escalante National Monument
• Lick Wash to No Man Mesa:  Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

Deer Range Point

Tom first brought up hiking Deer Range Point, back in February, when we were exploring Potters Butte.  He became even more interested when he found that Swallow Benchmark was on top and had been placed there by a crew using a helicopter in 1954.  Tom gets a lot of satisfaction in recovering and updating a Benchmark by hiking (if possible) to these survey markers.

We thought this looked like an interesting hike and asked Tom if we could "tag" along. The trek to the base provided us with some amazing formations and then we enjoyed gorgeous views from the summit.  There were times, while hiking the last 700 feet (in less than 1/3 of a mile), when we weren't sure getting to the top would be possible - but it was - what a great feeling and a great hike!

 We started out on Nipple Ranch Road (pictured above) . . .
Then turned off on a deep sand jeep trail . . . it was an exciting ride!

Our plan was to hike up Deer Range Point & locate the Swallow Benchmark  

No Mans Mesa looms in the distance . . . 

If all goes as planned, we hope to be on top of this mesa tomorrow

Storm clouds quickly moved over Mollies Nipple to our south . . .
We had checked the forecast beforehand and there was no mention of any precipitation??   

Soon we were showered with graupel or snow pellets . . .
 They stood out on Lola's fur coat 

  Indian Paintbrush were just starting to bloom for the season

The graupel collected, in groups, on the sand . . . pretty cool!

There were so many geologic surprises on this hike . . . like this red rock cluster

The views opened up as we gained elevation
(Looking back towards the south and No Mans Mesa where we started)

It's beginning to look challenging 

This delicate Cushion Phlox caught Allison's eye

It was hard to miss these colorful striations in the sandstone

The going got tough . . . especially for the dogs
Are we sure there's a way up through here?

We came across this little arch . . . I wonder how many people have seen this? 

As you might have guessed there is no trail . . .
 Notice Lola's expression . . . she thinks this is a crazy idea! 

It took teamwork to hoist the dogs up in a few places

We are getting close to the top!
That last few hundred feet looked impossible . . . but it wasn't!

The Swallow Benchmark was placed here via helicopter in 1954
What a bunch of wimps!

Tom located one of the copper nail & washer reference markers

We had great views from the top . . . Bryce Canyon, off to the northwest, is in the distance

The Grand Staircase has some of the most amazing scenery
(This is looking east . . . the Paria River drainage is below the red alcoves)

Tom and Allison head back down

Soon we rejoined Kent, who had stayed with Lola . . .
She refused to go any further . . . one too many narrow ledges!

Kent takes in the scenery before we head down
(We're pretty sure we'll be back to tackle the peak left of Kent!)

What a great day! 
 With no trail we hiked 6.2 miles RT with an elevation gain of 2772 feet . . . wow!

If you would like GPS tracks and a topo map detailing our route, you can find it by clicking here and this will take you to Tom's Peakbagger post.