Saturday, October 7, 2023

Parunuweap Canyon (Part 2)

Once we returned from Labyrinth Falls (Part 1 post can be found by clicking here), we began heading upstream to explore some magnificent narrows on our way to Sulphur Spring.  Sulphur Spring is at the bottom of a slot canyon that enters Parunuweap from the north and is the exit point for canyoneers who descend Fat Man's Misery with their ropes.  After relaxing at the warm spring, for several minutes, we headed back to the canyon entrance, took a short lunch, and psyched ourselves for the long grueling haul out of the canyon and back to Checkerboard Mesa.

Heading upstream
(It was surprising how powerful the water was, even though it was only knee deep)

Mike, where are you leading us?  Are we really going in there?

Now we can see why Mike said this was one of his favorite hikes!

Wow!

Just when we thought we had "whittled" the pictures down . . . 

We had to fit one more in!

Kent is coming out of the narrows and directly in front of him is Sulphur Spring

Sulfur Spring . . .
This warm spring (with a perfect lukewarm temperature) feeds this beautiful oasis

Fat Man's Misery, a technical slot canyon, ends here at the pool

This lizard had the right idea

After wading through the muddy waters of the East Fork,  
It was quite a contrast to find the crystal clear water of Sulfur Spring . . .
Oh, yeah, it was very soothing on Kent's strained knee! (More on that later)

Time to turn around and head back

Washington Monkeyflower

This spring came right out of a rock, flowing cool and clear . . .
Why we didn't filter water from it is beyond us!  Later we would wished we had!

Hope we didn't bore you with pictures!
Now it's time to begin the arduous task of getting out of this magical place

The initial ascent to the canyon rim is the hardest part of the hike . . .
But nothing too bad, unless you feel your knee beginning to give out!

On the rim and catching one last glimpse of Parunuweap Canyon

We can only imagine what this hike must be like in the heat of summer!
On this October day the temperature was 86° and it was draining . . . 
Remember that beautiful cool spring?  So did we, as we rationed our water!

Onward and upward

With still close to two miles to go,
Kent's knee ligaments were really "screaming" from the inflammation that was caused by rubbing against bone

Finally, at the saddle!
We only have a little over a mile to reach the car, but our water is gone . . .
Did we tell you our water filters were neatly stored (unused) in our packs??
Yeah, we're experienced hikers!

After the steep and sandy descent, Kent's knee pretty much locked up . . . 
Now it was time to use the walking sticks as crutches and will himself back to the car!

Almost there!

Signs of fall
(Allison used the slow pace to keep taking pictures)

One last dry fall
(Thanks Mike for your patience in getting the old man out!)

The car is just over the shady berm right in front of Kent . . .
We're going to make it!  Hooray, we'll live to hike another day!

Hiking from where we entered the canyon, upstream, involves another .3 of a mile hike to reach Sulphur Spring.  Then, of course, another .3 mile back to the Powell Plaque where you will want to take a good break before making the 4.6 mile ascent out of the canyon bottom and back to Checkerboard Mesa.  Total mileage for this hike was approximately 11 miles (r/t) and took us about nine hours . . . we only stopped for one 30 minute break in the canyon . . . so expect a long and exhausting day!  Not only was this a special hike, but provided us with a real sense of accomplishment for a couple 64+ yr olds . . . can't say enough, "Thanks!" to Mike for making this excursion a reality . . . it will live on in our memories forever!
 

Parunuweap Canyon (Part 1)

Five years ago, our friend Mike, suggested that we ought to do a hike into Parunuweap Canyon.  Mike had done this hike on three separate occasions and we were counting on him to be our guide into this rather remote canyon.  But for some odd reason, it just never worked out . . . not to say our interest ever waned . . . it was more about us feeling confident to do this strenuous hike (that involved some route finding) on our own!  Well the stars finally aligned for all of us and so we set off on an early October morning to explore this slot canyon that is comparable to the Zion Narrows . . . only on a slightly smaller scale.  What an adventure this turned out to be . . . it was worth the wait!

We began our hike at a pullout about ¾ mile from the Checkerboard Mesa View Area . . .
Strangely, we didn't get a picture of Checkerboard Mesa, but rather Crazy Quilt Mesa which is to the west

Our unmaintained (but very social) trail led us up this beautiful wash 

We stayed in the wash, heading south towards its' headwaters . . . 
This eventually would lead to a saddle that divides the mesas

Enjoying the fall colors as we continue on our way

One of our favorite Fall colors are these red Bigtooth Maple leaves

The sun is just beginning to peek over the cliffs as we complete the steep ascent out of the wash to the saddle
(Checkerboad Mesa is on the right and Crazy Quilt Mesa on the left)

Isn't this a unique piece of sandstone?  We noticed it both coming and going

Once we crossed the divide we were on the backside of Checkerboard Mesa . . .
From here we began to head east and south towards the East Fork of the Virgin River

Looking back at a more expansive view of the sandstone pictured above . . . 
The striations, colors, along with the unique wave patterns were very impressive!

Our first glimpse of where we are headed . . . just beyond those hills in the center of the picture
(Actually, we still need to work towards the east a little more)

Before long we came upon this massive slab of sandstone . . . 
During this stretch it would be easy to lose the "trail" as there were very few cairns to follow . . . 
We just stayed on the sandstone and headed south

Looking up at the surrounding scenery we were surprised to see this arch . . .
Later we learned it had a name . . . Checkerboard Arch . . . well, no duh!

Western Spiderwort

Hopefully, this picture gives a feel for how large this slab of sandstone really was!

Finally, off the slab of sandstone!
Now it's back to a short section of sand, as we continue almost due south

Just before dropping off into Parunuweap Canyon, we faced a fairly steep section that would lead to . . .

. . . an even more steep and crumbly final descent into the Canyon
(Honestly, we didn't find this too bad!  It did require us to use both our hands and feet)

This is the Powell Plaque embedded in sandstone . . .
We would have walked right past it had Mike not shown us where it was located 
(As soon as you hit the canyon floor, head towards your right and look behind the tamarisk)

Now the fun begins! 
 We found it very helpful to have water shoes and walking sticks . . .

Looking back upstream toward the Powell Plaque

Looks like a good picture to use for our annual Christmas letter . . .
Hard to believe the Holiday Seasons are just around the corner!

Looking up toward the sky

This section really made us feel small and insignificant!

We traveled to the end of this impressive narrow section and then turned around . . .
To go any further would be slow and cumbersome as you begin to near Labyrinth Falls

One final look before we head back

Heading back towards the Powell Plaque . . . then we will continue further upstream to Sulfur Spring

This portion of the hike involved a 4.6 mile trek that took us to the canyon floor.  Once down, we put on water shoes and started exploring downstream towards Labyrinth Falls (approx. .3 of a mile).  We didn't actually get to the Falls as ropes are considered a necessity for this technical part of the canyon . . . so we stopped just a little short of their upper reaches.  At this point we turned around and headed back upstream to where we entered the canyon, near the Powell plaque.  Part 2 of this post explores our journey upstream to Sulphur Spring and our return hike out of the canyon.  To read more about this section click here for Part 2.