Hoh Rainforest & Sol Duc Falls

During our two-day stay in Forks, Washington our plan was to visit several beaches early in the morning, during low tide, and then head inland for some afternoon exploring.  Two of the places we visited were the Hoh Rainforest and Sol Duc Falls.  We were a little disappointed in Hoh Rainforest, mainly due to an hour-long wait to get in, crowded parking and trails that were just okay.  Sol Duc Falls, although still busy, was a little more visually appealing and shared many similarities with the Hoh Rainforest.

Hoh Rainforest:

Our wait was just about an hour . . .
Knowing we more than likely wouldn't be back this way again, we decided to wait . . .
Knowing what we know now, we probably would have turned around

These are the two short trails we did at the rainforest . . .
Both start at the visitors center . . . Hall of Mosses was .75 mile . . . Spruce Trail was 1.25 miles

We were expecting a dripping mystical forest, but instead were greeted with a 95° very, very humid day

, 

Certainly a lot of mosses!

And even more mosses

Allison enjoyed the many different kinds of fungi growing from the towering giants

We certainly were impressed with the size of this Douglas Fir . . . 
Many were taller than a football field . . .
They were the highlight of the day for us!

Heading along the Spruce Trail

The Spruce Trail runs along the Hoh River for a short distance . . .
Many people were wading and cooling off in the glacial waters . . . maybe we should have done the same!

What a root ball! 
The sign, next to Kent, warned people not to try and climb it . . . we must admit that it could be a temptation!

Sol Duc Falls:

The next afternoon, we drove to Sol Duc Falls . . .
This was a much better experience for us . . . no waiting to get in, although still a lot of people!

Sol Duc Falls . . .
The trail was about 1.25 miles long and wandered through a nice rainforest

Devil's Club

Another view of the Falls and the bridge that you cross to gain access to some different views

Well, we better do the tourist thing to prove we were here!

Bunchberry

More of those fungi that Allison likes to admire

Doesn't the Sol Duc River look refreshing?
Apparently it was, as there were several people swimming in this lovely pool!

If you only have time to do either the Hoh Rainforest or Sol Duc Falls, we would suggest Sol Duc Falls.  It's a long drive into the Hoh Rainforest (30 miles) and you can get a similar feel for it by hiking the trail to Sol Duc Falls.  Also, after visiting the Falls you can backtrack down the road from the parking lot for a couple of miles to the hot springs.  There's a nice (small) lodge there with many amenities . . . nothing was available at the Rainforest.  These were both good trips to do in the afternoon, after spending our mornings at Rialto Beach and Second Beach.

 

Rialto Beach

One of the unique things about Olympic National Park is how quickly you can go from scaling a mountain peak to strolling on a beautiful coastline.  Today, we hiked north from Rialto Beach to a formation known as Hole-in-the-Rock.  Instead of following a traditional trail we used the beach itself as our path.  Along the way we were able to explore the base of some sea stacks and then the tidal pools that surround Hole-in-the-Rock.

Rialto Beach is about 20 minutes from Forks, Washington near La Push . . .
We left around 7:00 am so we could arrive during low tide which was scheduled for 9:00 am

We were surprised to find the beach wasn't comprised of sand, but rather billions of polished rocks

The early morning sun shining trough the rainforest, along with a light fog, made for some moody photos

After walking for about a half mile on the polished rock, the shore gradually transitioned to sand

Soon rocks began to appear and the fun started as we examined each to see what was attached to them

Starfish were abundant in all sizes and colors

After about a mile and a half we came to the Hole-in-the-Rock arch . . .
If you don't arrive during low tide, you will only be able to see the hole, but not be able to stand under it

More starfish!  They were everywhere

We spent about an hour exploring the tide pools that jut out from Hole-in-the-Rock . . . very fun!
(Remember, all of these will be under water if you don't arrive at low tide)

Green sea anemone . . .
It was unusual to find this one "open" still trying to attract food . . . most were closed and not so pretty

Click on the picture for an expanded view

Hole-in-the-Rock from the other side . . . looking south from where we have come
You can see the tide marks on the walls . . . this gives a good indication of how high the tides rise

As we headed back, we decided to spend some time exploring the area around these sea stacks

Starfish and sea anemones
(Notice how different the sea anemones look when closed up)

These sea stacks were fun to explore . . . 
We were able to walk between them out to where the waves were crashing on the formations

One last look at the morning sun (before it burns the fog off) as we head back to the parking area . . .
It's been a great morning!

We thoroughly enjoyed our time at Rialto Beach!  If you are considering doing this hike remember that it's about a 1.5 mile walk (one-way) from the parking lot to Hole-in-the-Rock. Make sure to plan on arriving one to two hours before low tide so that you can have a leisurely stroll to the sea stacks and tide pools that surround Hole-in-the-Rock.  You can click here for a tide chart for the La Push coastline.  Low tide happens twice a day, so if you're more inclined for a late afternoon/early evening visit to Rialto Beach you're in luck!

Neah Bay

On Sunday, our itinerary took us west from Port Angeles to the small coastal town of Neah Bay.  The main reason for taking this slow, winding road along the Olympic Peninsula's northern coast was to reach Cape Flattery.  From here, we planned to hike to the most northwest point of the continental United States.  It turned out to be a beautiful day, and after a short hike, we returned to Neah Bay for lunch at Calvin's Crab House.

Allison was intrigued with this rock . . . Can you see the man with wispy hair?
(His mouth is open and as he is looking towards the sky with his shades on)

Approximately 15 minutes out of Neah Bay you will come to a paved parking lot . . . 
From here it is a 1.5 mile (r/t) hike to Cape Flattery . . . the northwest most point of the contiguous United States

The first part of the trail is an old road but soon transitions to sections of boardwalks 

At the end of the trail there are several different platforms from which you can view sea caves . . .

and sea stacks

One half mile northwest is Tatoosh Island and the Cape Flattery Lighthouse built in 1854 . . .
 This historic lighthouse is at the entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuca

Kent was feeling like a hobbit, walking through the rainforest with all the moss and ferns

This platform had a beautiful view of the rugged coastline that can be found at the end of Cape Flattery . . .
We were also interested in this particular platform because there was supposed to be a benchmark near by it . . . 
Unfortunately, we weren't able to locate it . . . it appears to have collapsed into the ocean!

Almost back . . . this is the road portion of the trail we mentioned earlier

We decided to explore the coastline south of Cape Flattery on our return to Neah Bay . . .
This would be the direction to head if you were interested in hiking to Shi Shi Beach 

Even though it was a clear, calm day, the sea was still crashing against these rocks . . . 
It made for some nice ocean spray pictures!

Allison couldn't resist!

After exploring the Cape Flattery area we were getting pretty hungry . . .
Kent had clam strips on his mind and Allison was thinking about halibut . . . 
We ended up stopping at a small family roadside cafe called Calvin's Crab House . . .
We walked across the street and enjoyed the views of Neah Bay as we waited for our food

The vote is in . . . the Halibut was the better choice!

A final view of Neah Bay's harbor as we exit town and head for Forks, Washington

Neah Bay is a tribal town of the Makah nation and requires all visitors to purchase a recreational pass.  These cost $20/per vehicle and are good for one year.  They can be purchased at the mini-mart, marina or museum (there was even a booth at the Cape Flattery parking lot).  The money is used for upkeep and maintenance of trails.  As the counter clerk said when we purchased ours, "Have a good day and follow the double yellow lines on the road to the end of the pavement . . . that's how you'll know you've arrived at Cape Flattery!"

Mt. Storm King and Marymere Falls

Due to the Bear Gulch Fire near Hoodsport, we had to make a last-minute change.  Instead of hiking to Mt. Ellinor as we originally planned, we ended up traveling to Lake Crescent to hike Mt. Storm King, with a side trip to Marymere Falls.  The trail, up Mt. Storm King, was very steep and dusty from the many different groups of people who were hiking the peak.  We were surprised by the diverse range of people we encountered along the trail . . . from those who seemed unprepared for the mountain to the trail runners who "blew" past us.  Reaching the summit and enjoying the unobstructed views of Crescent Lake was definitely worth the effort!

Since the parking lot was full at the Marymere Falls trailhead (you need to use this trail to access Mt. Storm King), we drove a short distance to Crescent Lodge where we were able to find a spot . . . this actually worked well as there was a cutoff trail that led from the Lodge to the Marymere Falls trail

On the cutoff trail . . .
We had to laugh at wasn't allowed on the trail! Pets, okay . . . weapons, maybe . . . vehicles, are you kidding??

Kent wanted to get a picture of this large Douglas Fir tree . . .
They grow 'em big on the peninsula!

Let the adventure begin!

Another reminder of how large some of the trees can become in this area

Here's a good example of what to expect on this very steep trail . . .
Are we sure we really want to do this?

There are many switchbacks (thankfully!) but they aren't concerned with the hiker's comfort . . .
They have one purpose . . . to get you to the top!

Did we mention it was steep?!
The tree with the red bark is the Pacific Madrone 

Finally out of the forest and on a ridge with a good view of the eastern arm of Crescent Lake

The final push is what the NPS calls an "unmaintained trail" . . .
Someone has put a series of ropes in to help the hikers negotiate the loose scree . . .
We're not sure they were necessary, as it caused a logjam waiting for other hikers to ascend/descend

Here's the reward you will receive if you persevere to the top
(The Lodge, where we started, is on the left side of the flat peninsula that jutts out into the lake)

As you can see, there were several others who decided to join us up top

Click on the picture for a panoramic view
(Notice the Pacific Ocean behind the layer of clouds)

Going down the spine was a little unnerving for Kent
 (Allison was kind enough to not include a picture of him crab-walking this section)
For those of you who like to recover benchmarks (as we do), there's one located on the peak in front of Kent . . . We are not going to get it!

Here's a better view of the ropes we mentioned earlier

Getting ready to head down the "maintained" portion of the trail

There certainly are a lot of roots to negotiate over and around on this trail

Ghost pipe . . .
A perennial wildflower that grows in a shaded forest 

Once we made it down, we took a rest and decided to continue on to Marymere Falls
(The Mt. Storm King trail is accessed by hiking the Marymere Falls trail)

Hiking through the rainforest on our way to the Falls

Lots of cool looking moss hanging from the trees

Marymere Falls

Kent's knee was starting to give him trouble so he waited for Allison as she visited the Falls
(The last little bit of trail leading to the Falls involves several switchbacks that deliver you to it's base)

Remember that parking lot by the Crescent Lodge, where we started?
Well, right across the parking lot was the gorgeous Lake Crescent beach . . . time to put on some water shoes and clean the dust off our legs . . . Can you say refreshing?  Boy, did that water ever feel great!

No getting around it . . . this was a tough hike!  We climbed 2,100 ft in about two-miles! (Just remember you have to descend that same amount and it can be tough on your knees) Altogether we hiked about 6-miles (r/t) by incorporating Marymere Falls into the hike.  The rewarding views from the top and the cool water of the lake at the end made the sometimes monotonous hike worthwhile!  If you're looking for a hiking challenge, with an excellent payoff, this one's for you.